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Repair Questions and Answers.

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 #376760  by coatsy
 December 1st, 2018, 4:44 pm
Steve From MA wrote:
November 13th, 2018, 11:04 pm
Given how rusty some of the stuff is it may escalate as you start taking things apart. A lot would depend on how / if the tie rod end and sway bar endlinks unbolt from the strut without breaking. You can get that torsion bar and front bushings from dorman (part number 905-542) for about $35 a side. the rear bushings on that bar are part of the lower control arm which also includes the lower ball joint.

I've had the kyb quick struts in for 48k miles and there still doing good.
Escalate is an understatement. I'm full bore into the job. It's gonna take awhile.

Started on passenger side feeling it was the worse, closest to side of road grabs most salt etc.

The tierod bolt would not Fing budge more than about 1/4 inch. Got frustrated and sawzalled the (CENSORED) off.

On to the sway bar, I blasted and torched that SOB for half hour I bet. Grunts and swear words and about 4 cigarettes and two beer and got the prick. It was better than sex when that bolt came out.

Two Pinch Bolts came easy. Torsion bar is out also. Tomorrow just need to undo the lower control arm and the right side is undone.

Praying the drivers side is a bit easier especially the sway bar bolts it honestly considered cutting the arms off might have been quicker.

Needless to say I've ordered more parts, when all said an done the entire front end will be new except the inner rods, may just break down and replace those bushings while I'm in here.

Appreciate everyone's help. I may need more help yet putting it back together but it kinda seems pretty straightforward.
 #376785  by coatsy
 December 3rd, 2018, 3:31 pm
So I got both strut assemblies back in. Here's a pic of the old ones the passenger side was legit ready to snap at anytime.

Just waiting on parts. One question, the tension bar that goes to the frame from the control arm, is it normal to have to order separate bushings for the control arm side? The pic of the Dorman arm I bought only appears to have bushings for the frame (where it attaches at the front).
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 #376786  by Steve From MA
 December 3rd, 2018, 6:12 pm
coatsy wrote:
December 3rd, 2018, 3:31 pm
So I got both strut assemblies back in. Here's a pic of the old ones the passenger side was legit ready to snap at anytime.

Just waiting on parts. One question, the tension bar that goes to the frame from the control arm, is it normal to have to order separate bushings for the control arm side? The pic of the Dorman arm I bought only appears to have bushings for the frame (where it attaches at the front).
Correct usually the bushing on the other side comes with the control arm. - you have to remove the control arm to remove that bar. make sure you torque the inner frame control arm bolt when the suspension is under load.
 #376792  by coatsy
 December 4th, 2018, 10:58 am
Thanks man, should the car be under load to tighten the tierods and sway bars also? Or is that just for the lower control arm and front lower arm
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 #376794  by Sneke_Eyez
 December 4th, 2018, 2:26 pm
I do not tighten the tie rods with the car on the ground, but I have found tightening the front sway bar endlinks with the car on the ground seems to make for a longer-lasting endlink experience. YMMV, but that's what I do.
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 #376798  by Steve From MA
 December 5th, 2018, 2:02 pm
Sneke_Eyez wrote:
December 4th, 2018, 2:26 pm
I do not tighten the tie rods with the car on the ground, but I have found tightening the front sway bar endlinks with the car on the ground seems to make for a longer-lasting endlink experience. YMMV, but that's what I do.
Tie rods shouldn't make any difference, when i did my endlinks i torque speced the top one and just left the bottom one snug then put it up on ramps and did the bottom link and control arm, - pinch bolt on the control arm shouldn't mater either - I did that up in the air.

On other cars i've jacked up the suspension slightly with the car on stands until the tie rod end bolts were dead level and it could be installed easily - then torqued to spec - I haven't noticed much difference either way - you'll always have some torsion on the links if you try doing them on full load vs no preload.
 #376827  by IMSpecialX2
 December 9th, 2018, 10:28 pm
I just came across this post. Figured I chime in Cos I just changed Mine in My silver Special. It was just sounding like the whole front end was going to break in Half and fall off/separate from the car, even when going over the littlest pothole, it was Like metals where grinding everytime. At Only 106+K Miles.
So one day I was at the junkyard and saw this Base M with seemingly all brand new front and Rear suspension, I'm not sure what brand it I, it has "669 P130J1" written on the strut and Monroe 903902 written on the strut tower cups and it's blue. So idk if it's the same or it was mixed in, the springs are somewhat smaller in diameter than the ones that came out (Fatory Original OEM) I believe.. I'm not very knowledgeable on suspension parts.. The ones that came out had the white top plastic part/piece (idk what it's called, I guess it houses the bearings???) Are broken in pieces and had bearing particles falling out of it. The springs we're all rotted, the rubber that the springs sits on (Rubber Isolators??) were rotted as well and missing at some areas.. Idk why they are made this way, are they made to work extra hard or just cheap parts?... My Intrepid has 176+K Miles on and not one single suspension Problem...?

But anyway, I read Snake_eye's post and saw where some guys mentioned something about the suspension/strut assembly Coming or not coming with Bearing.. How true is that? So does that Mean the one I got from junkyard didn't have it? Is the so called bearings exclusive to the Specials? And what exactly is the function/purpose of this bearing? Is it absolutely needed/necessary? Without it will it affect anything? Because I don't even know what I got, I just know it's better than what was in there..
 #376864  by coatsy
 December 11th, 2018, 1:25 pm
All back together. Man what a difference.
I was able to keep tha alignment pretty much the same. Took ER for a good run 20-25km. Various speeds and cornering and its tight. Only negatives are it seems a bit bouncey, and it sits alot higher. Lastly my steering wheel is out a bit but I'll wait and adjust that in the spring. It been a cold (CENSORED) week here - 10 to - 15 Celsius so not gonna bother with adjusting that until I swap out the winter tires in April.

I want to thank you all here that helped me with this. Couldn't have done it without this site. It was a little bit of a stressor getting into it but went fairly smooth. I think the most stressful part was the test run. But she ran smooth at high speed and the handling is like it was 17 years ago. Lol
 #376865  by coatsy
 December 11th, 2018, 1:33 pm
IM Special, just saw your reply. I went with the KYB quick strut. Just swap and go, my whole set up was original so springs were rough and the strut was literally falling apart...Scary to think if I woulda tried to get the winter out of the old. I'm 99% sure I would have had an accident and maybe died. They were bad.