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Repair Questions and Answers.

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 #365879  by 04DSBSpecial
 March 20th, 2017, 10:29 am
Have code P1776. Where's the best place to purchase them both?
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 #365880  by M-Pressive
 March 20th, 2017, 10:48 am
I bought my valve bodies from here and have recommended them to numerous people on the site.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-A606-4 ... CM&vxp=mtr
Give him a call, the price is usually a bit better if you deal with him directly.

Solenoid pack can come from eBay as well. I bought a new one but many here have used refurbished ones.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=ch ... k&_sacat=0

There are a ton of them out there.
04DSBSpecial liked this
 #365881  by 04DSBSpecial
 March 20th, 2017, 11:11 am
M-Pressive wrote:I bought my valve bodies from here and have recommended them to numerous people on the site.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-A606-4 ... CM&vxp=mtr
Give him a call, the price is usually a bit better if you deal with him directly.

Solenoid pack can come from eBay as well. I bought a new one but many here have used refurbished ones.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=ch ... k&_sacat=0

There are a ton of them out there.
Thanks for the info. I'll give the guy a call for the valve body. As far as solenoid pack, the prices range from $50-$170. Which one should I go with?
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 #365882  by FIREM
 March 20th, 2017, 11:34 am
Copied my post from the Knowledgebase :
Last few weeks 1776 / Limp mode, the Pro-Am is now a good as new. Pulled the valve body, thorough disassembly and cleaning, went thru the solenoid, only lasted a few days.
Installed a Remanufacutred Solenoid from TRANZMISSION PARTS USA. $49.99, lifetime warranty, even came with a new gasket, good to go. (EBay) Figured that the Pro-Am is my daily "truck" and trying to keep it on the road, on the cheap, took a chance on the reman, with good success. Saved $100 ++
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 #365885  by 04DSBSpecial
 March 20th, 2017, 11:45 am
FIREM wrote:Copied my post from the Knowledgebase :
Last few weeks 1776 / Limp mode, the Pro-Am is now a good as new. Pulled the valve body, thorough disassembly and cleaning, went thru the solenoid, only lasted a few days.
Installed a Remanufacutred Solenoid from TRANZMISSION PARTS USA. $49.99, lifetime warranty, even came with a new gasket, good to go. (EBay) Figured that the Pro-Am is my daily "truck" and trying to keep it on the road, on the cheap, took a chance on the reman, with good success. Saved $100 ++
How long ago did you perform the cleaning?
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 #365886  by FIREM
 March 20th, 2017, 1:46 pm
4 weeks ago pulled apart and cleaned everything. Within 50 miles limp and 1776. 3 weeks ago swapped solenoid with the reman. 500 miles later shifts great no limp no codes. At least one other member running a reman for some time now without issues.
 #365889  by 04DSBSpecial
 March 20th, 2017, 3:06 pm
FIREM wrote:4 weeks ago pulled apart and cleaned everything. Within 50 miles limp and 1776. 3 weeks ago swapped solenoid with the reman. 500 miles later shifts great no limp no codes. At least one other member running a reman for some time now without issues.
My only concern is the cleaning only working for a few months of daily driving and having to pay again for the labor in addition to buying valve
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 #365891  by FIREM
 March 20th, 2017, 3:16 pm
Cleaning the valve body was part of the process.
Tried to be cheap, cleaned the valve body and solenoid, put it together, didn't cure the problem.
Week later, replaced only the solenoid pack, now all is well.
I do all my own work so labor is on me. Sometimes I have to do somethings a second time but always learn from the process.
If you are paying for labor and supplying the parts then you only want to go in once.
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 #365896  by 300GEM
 March 21st, 2017, 4:23 am
Ahh, the blasted P1776...unfortunately, I'm all too familiar with that trouble code. I had bought a new valve body and solenoid pack (both from eBay IIRC) and had them installed in July 2013. Car drove great for 38,000 miles until I started experiencing some major trans slippage that gradually worsened over time until the car wouldn't shift past 2nd gear (maxed out at 36 MPH). Thought I was in limp mode but even after turning the engine off and re-starting the car, the issue still persisted. Needless to say, the trans had "tapped out" about 39,000 miles after the initial replacement.

I ended up having the transmission rebuilt right after New Year's Day this past January. First major repair on the car since I've had it (almost five years this May) and also the most expensive. The solenoid pack was also replaced again as "preventative maintenance" even though I still feel like 39,000 miles wasn't long enough to justify another replacement. Thought about installing a used trans but needed the car back fairly soon so just bit the bullet on the cost of the rebuild.

It turned out that the torque converter had an internal failure on one of the clutches, causing the car to stay stuck in 2nd. Upon inspection, it looked like a small chunk had been taken out of the circular ring. Really wish I had taken some pictures to show what happened. Don't ask how it happened because I was shocked myself. Needless to say, all is well now after the rebuild. Still can't believe how expensive it was but at least it came with a two-year warranty on both parts/labor.

Best of luck to you and I really hope everything goes well in the long run!
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 #365899  by FIREM
 March 21st, 2017, 6:58 am
The reason 1776 is problematic is two fold.
Electrically controlled solenoid operates valves that route the fluid pressure to various hydraulic spools valves in the valve body.
If the solenoid fails it sets the code.
If the solenoid directs fluid to the L/R spool valve, also known as the L/R switch valve, and the valve does not shift it may also set the code. All based on fluid pressure and flow to the proper port and feedback that the command sent did actually occur can cause the code.
This is why it "could" be the solenoid or the valve body or both.
 #365906  by 04DSBSpecial
 March 21st, 2017, 12:49 pm
FIREM wrote:The reason 1776 is problematic is two fold.
Electrically controlled solenoid operates valves that route the fluid pressure to various hydraulic spools valves in the valve body.
If the solenoid fails it sets the code.
If the solenoid directs fluid to the L/R spool valve, also known as the L/R switch valve, and the valve does not shift it may also set the code. All based on fluid pressure and flow to the proper port and feedback that the command sent did actually occur can cause the code.
This is why it "could" be the solenoid or the valve body or both.
Is there an average mileage that this occurs? Found a used valve body that has been cleaned. Thinking about going with that with the reman solenoid depending on how much the mechanic will charge me to clean mine. If I can get 2 years/30,000 miles. I'll be satisfied
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 #365909  by LUNAT1C
 March 21st, 2017, 3:08 pm
As I recall, the "average" for this code for 02-04 transaxles is the solenoid pack is the culprit. Some folks still replace the valve body concurrently to save themselves the headache doing the job twice if the solenoid pack doesn't fix it. Both of our Specials have brand new OEM Mopar solenoid packs in them, one replaced due to 1776 and the other replaced while the transaxle was being rebuilt anyway, preventative maintenance. Neither car has had transaxle related issues since replacement and both cars still have their original valve bodies, cleaned and inspected by the transmission shop that performed the work on both cars.
 #366281  by 04DSBSpecial
 April 3rd, 2017, 3:37 pm
Found a transmission guy and he suggests to clean and replace the valves in valve body and replace solenoid with new one. Cost around $600 for parts and labor. Good solution and price?
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 #366282  by FIREM
 April 3rd, 2017, 3:59 pm
Decent price if it includes new ATF+4
 #366378  by piperdog
 April 5th, 2017, 9:04 pm
Everyone has an opinion so you need to determine which solution to pursue. My opinion follows:

At 79K miles I would not suspect that there is excessive wear in the valve body itself such that the L/R valve sticks. In any case, if that happened its just as likely that wear in the bore itself is the problem so replacing just the valve won't be sufficient. The true solution for that is to bore a slightly larger diameter bore hole and put in an oversize valve. At that point you might as well buy a reman or new valve body. I've also tried just new L/R valves but it didn't solve the P1776 problem. What did solve my problem was a new solenoid pack as you will almost universally hear on the forums. I can't recall reading of anyone who solved a P1776 on a low mileage vehicle by just replacing the valve body. That doesn't mean it doesn't happen. Just that a replacement solenoid pack is far more likely to be your solution. If you want to know more about the P1776 issue from end to end then read my post in the Knowledge Base. It might interest you if you're inquisitive.

Bottom line: Replace the solenoid pack. If you are really risk averse then replace both the solenoid pack and the valve body. Personally if I had your mileage I'd just replace the solenoid pack