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  • Talk about the most common LH mod, and why Chrysler didn't do it.
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Talk about the most common LH mod, and why Chrysler didn't do it.

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 #301984  by Shadowvox6
 March 20th, 2013, 12:36 pm
300maximilien wrote:I'm not picking on ya Tom, but is this fair to say...


2 1st Gen LH manifolds - $??
2 Magnaflow Spun Hi-Flow Converters $100 each?
1 Flowmonster X-pipe $40
2 Thrush Welded Mufflers $40 each?
2 4" resonated exhaust tips $30 each

That's $350 in parts not including mani's and labor...

Also this is a great explanation on back pressure. I am no expert, but everything I read points to the same conclusion. Unless you are getting more fuel in there is not much gain to reduced back pressure. And with modern engines unless you can alter the fuel program you can actually reduce power.
Every naturally aspirated 4 stroke gasoline or methanol engine will run it's best with no back pressure. Any automotive engineer or racing engine builder will confirm that.

The problem is, virtually all carburetors and fuel injection systems were designed for engines that are muffled and have some back pressure. The result is many times when back pressure is reduced or eliminated the fuel curve is disturbed and the engines often loose low end torque because of the mismatched lean fuel curve. A simple jet change many times wont correct this. It requires a completely new fuel curve that is beyond most people's capability. This results in many people believing some back pressure is necessary,

There are no mufflers or back pressure on professional racing cars like F-1, NASCAR or NHRA.

A small amount of back pressure does not hurt performance much and it is impossible to dampen the exhaust noise without a little restriction (back pressure) so any street car will have some back pressure.
Of course this info is only as good as it's source. And could only be 100% if before and after DYNOs are done at each power adder step.

I won't say what I spent on the parts, but you are partially accurate.
As far as back pressure, all my years of experience tells me that street cars need some back pressure to run optimally.
My system has back pressure....anything in the system (ie: catalytic converters, bends, mufflers) create back pressure.
I will say this....the two best mods I have ever done to my car are the high stall torque converter, and the 1G exhaust manifolds, without question.
 #301987  by YesImLDS
 March 20th, 2013, 12:57 pm
shadowvox6 wrote:
300maximilien wrote:I'm not picking on ya Tom, but is this fair to say...


2 1st Gen LH manifolds - $??
2 Magnaflow Spun Hi-Flow Converters $100 each?
1 Flowmonster X-pipe $40
2 Thrush Welded Mufflers $40 each?
2 4" resonated exhaust tips $30 each

That's $350 in parts not including mani's and labor...

Also this is a great explanation on back pressure. I am no expert, but everything I read points to the same conclusion. Unless you are getting more fuel in there is not much gain to reduced back pressure. And with modern engines unless you can alter the fuel program you can actually reduce power.
Every naturally aspirated 4 stroke gasoline or methanol engine will run it's best with no back pressure. Any automotive engineer or racing engine builder will confirm that.

The problem is, virtually all carburetors and fuel injection systems were designed for engines that are muffled and have some back pressure. The result is many times when back pressure is reduced or eliminated the fuel curve is disturbed and the engines often loose low end torque because of the mismatched lean fuel curve. A simple jet change many times wont correct this. It requires a completely new fuel curve that is beyond most people's capability. This results in many people believing some back pressure is necessary,

There are no mufflers or back pressure on professional racing cars like F-1, NASCAR or NHRA.

A small amount of back pressure does not hurt performance much and it is impossible to dampen the exhaust noise without a little restriction (back pressure) so any street car will have some back pressure.
Of course this info is only as good as it's source. And could only be 100% if before and after DYNOs are done at each power adder step.

I won't say what I spent on the parts, but you are partially accurate.
As far as back pressure, all my years of experience tells me that street cars need some back pressure to run optimally.
My system has back pressure....anything in the system (ie: catalytic converters, bends, mufflers) create back pressure.
I will say this....the two best mods I have ever done to my car are the high stall torque converter, and the 1G exhaust manifolds, without question.
I don't doubt you but depending on the 300m you putting this much into the car unless it is your baby there is no point for the average driver to spend a grand on this kind I'd set up. If you got $400 great for you but anybody else would be lucky to get this custom exhaust for $700-$1000+ depending on the shop. It just isn't feasible to look at it and see it as a smart investment from my viewpoint
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 #302040  by Brando26
 March 20th, 2013, 5:47 pm
Its a labor of love. Most people doing mods like that don't plan to resell. Toms car is ridiculous in a good way. Was riding with him in Indianapolis once and the car barked 2nd while driving. Mine never did that no matter what performance mods I had...

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 #302060  by 300maximilien
 March 20th, 2013, 7:46 pm
brando26 wrote: the car barked 2nd while driving. Mine never did that no matter what performance mods I had...
Both Specials I have owned did this stock in A/S.
 #302106  by xyth
 March 20th, 2013, 10:08 pm
So general consensus is setup 1 will serve me best as far as sound and drone then?

I appreciate the input as far as true duals go shadowvox, but I just don't think it's in the cards right now. Any input as far as these two setups go though? It seems like there wont be much difference between them, but Id like to hear your opinion.

Thanks everyone else for the input as well!