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  • Talk about the most common LH mod, and why Chrysler didn't do it.
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Talk about the most common LH mod, and why Chrysler didn't do it.

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 #316045  by Countachqv
 August 25th, 2013, 9:35 am
Ok. I just spent more time I could afford going thru the myriad of very good posts here to help me choose a complete exhaust setup.

After reading on many setup, I built a draft of what I want that still needs to be completed. However, I found some part numbers, price etc, to be obsolete and I could not really find a post addressing a system from end to end and that prompted me to start this new thread.

My requirements are:
1) A system more efficient than stock
2) Less expensive that stock
3) Better sound but not too loud
4) System will last
5) Better looking from the rear

Here is what I got so far. I stayed with the tried and conventional.
I would use pretty much all clamps to tie all parts of the new system. I figure 8 clamps. I may have welding done on some parts if more pipe length is needed to adjust (thinking of the mandrel/tips).

Laborwise, the hard part will be the removal of the old CAT, driver side (I keep the passenger side). Breaking the old exhaust is not going to be a concern once I get the new one ready on the floor.
I welcome comments, up to date info, and fine tuning of the list.

========================
1 Catalytic & flex - driver side: Not sure what will go here it. MagnaFlow 23258?? ($250) but some claimed it is not as exact fit as advertised

1 Resonator/Collector: MagnaFlow 12258 - Stainless steel ($100)

1 Intermediate pipe: buy stock 2 1/2 ?

1 Muffler: DynoMax 177 - Stainless steel? (not found ?)

2 Mandrel bent elbows: JC Whitney Part Number 81AS2968Y (??no longer found)

2 TIPS: Magnaflow dual Rolled-Round-Angle Cut 10"length - DOUBLE-WALL TIPS 35168 - Polish stainless ($70x2)

Cutout for dual: http://public.fotki.com/rogor2k/300m_dual_exhaust/

Note: Pricing are approximate and for some shops, which I make sure I will avoid, internet price are based on the state you are in (we are not all equals)
User avatar
 #316046  by M-Pressive
 August 25th, 2013, 9:38 am
I do have a set of stock special tips for sale if you are interested in the factory look like Tyler has on his M.
 #326039  by Countachqv
 February 21st, 2014, 5:08 pm
reviving this.

So far , I have not gotten time to move on this but the noise aint getting better.

doing more search Something striked me: you guys are replacing what is said to be the Resonator behind the CATS with what is advertised as a muffler: MagnaFlow 12258 - Stainless steel ($100).In addition it seems it is installed in reversed (dual to single whereas it is sold as single to dual). I am quite confused. I know nothing about resonator vs muffler vs inflow and outflow. Is this OK? does not a muffler restricts?

As a substitute does any of you know of universal Y pipe that could replace that thing or would it had to be made? I am not sure why I would need a resonator that rots at over $125 there.All I know is a resonator is supposed to be a "sound modificator".
User avatar
 #326051  by Mottman
 February 21st, 2014, 7:13 pm
Magnaflow says on theyr website that this muffler can be reversed. Also it is made
in the USA and comes with a lifetime warranty. I got one on The EVIL Sickness now.
Rest of the exhaust is 100% stock. It is just a tiny bit throatier than stock. Eventually
I wanna go the HUJO setup as budget allows. It is almost a bolt-up and go swap. Only
thing I noticed is the band clamps didnt hold very tight
( Use old style horseshoe clamps or have it welded ) Otherwise, mark your tailpipe in
relation to the floor-pan and measure twice before removing the OEM resonator
( I think the Magnaflow's main body is about 1 3/4 " longer ) I had to cut and grind off
the steel loop support thats welded on the OEM resonator to the tailpipe to make it fit
at correct measurement / position.

Looking inside of the two I really cant see much difference internally, the Magnaflow
looks a little bit more open, less restricted. Resonator, muffler,collector I dont know
the difference. Car really dosent feel any different. Some sites call the OEM part a
collector. Either way, I think you will be pleased with it.

Like a terrible addictive drug

Yhe EVIL Sickness
 #326070  by Countachqv
 February 22nd, 2014, 9:56 am
thks for the explaination.
Went again to a shop today for replacing just the flex on the driver side:$700 estimate. Better than the $1000 from the chain before. that is the price given assuming they save the CAT weld a flex . They quoted 4-5hours to remove the cat and weld (taking the axle off to do that too). To do a long lasting job cat has to come out and that I do beleive.
Do you have toget the axle off to remove the CAT? no matter how islice this I just cant justify that kind of price. Or I am totally ignorant of what it really takes?
User avatar
 #326096  by Mottman
 February 22nd, 2014, 5:43 pm
I would shop around for a better price. 4 - to - 5 Hours to repair a flexpipe seems
awful high to me. Drivers side cat can be worked out without disturbing the drivshaft
( at least on mine ) It is tight but do-able. Passangers side is worse. But can be done
by removing the rear ( trans ) mount and tilting the engine back. I think you should
try getting the drivers side cat with flexpipe and downpipe to resonator from a
u-pull yard. Then you can see how its not that difficult. In the very least, have someone
here look up the flat rate estimate for this. I would be supprised if it were over 2 hours.
But I could be wrong.
 #326124  by Countachqv
 February 23rd, 2014, 7:56 am
I went yet to another shop at the end of the day. This time I was told may be $200 to take off the cat and get flex on it but they have to look at it (they were closing). Sounds better. If they hit me over $250, I'll do the darn thing myself out of furstration. I am just not looking forward exhaust repairs. not my thing.
Mottman wrote:I would shop around for a better price. 4 - to - 5 Hours to repair a flexpipe seems
awful high to me. Drivers side cat can be worked out without disturbing the drivshaft
( at least on mine ) It is tight but do-able. Passangers side is worse. But can be done
by removing the rear ( trans ) mount and tilting the engine back. I think you should
try getting the drivers side cat with flexpipe and downpipe to resonator from a
u-pull yard. Then you can see how its not that difficult. In the very least, have someone
here look up the flat rate estimate for this. I would be supprised if it were over 2 hours.
But I could be wrong.
User avatar
 #326169  by Mottman
 February 23rd, 2014, 7:35 pm
Me neither but getting slowly gassed to death aint much fun. When I replaced the
trans. I saw the resonator / collector was rotted out. And realized why I was getting
terrible headaches by the time I got home from work each day.
Going to work = no traffic = no stops = no headaches / Going home
from work = lots of traffic = lots of stop n go driving = roaring headaches.

Needless to say, since I put the Magnaflow on = no more headaches.

Glad you shopped around and found a more resonable price.
I would still price up a cat and pipe from a local salvage yard.
This is not hard to replace. As long as you can get under the car safely.