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General Discussions about the 300M and other LHs

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 #355159  by hrmwrm
hot tanking is for deep cleaning of the block and passages.
Bore it out and use Dodge Nitro 4.0L pistons?
probably not enough to bore, but it's unecessary. 4L is just more stroke. whole reciprocating assembly is needed, and the mains turned down on the crank.
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 #358015  by Adrian63
I'm planning to rebuild the engine in my car (i have no timing belt problem but I feel the car is loosing power at higher rpm plus I'm sure my engine is not rusted inside) and most of the stuffs you need for a total engine rebuild are cheap in Europe.For example all rod bearings in the engine I found for about €70 ,all gaskets were abit more expensive for @€230 the entire set ... B00DQJ99I6 (UK link ,they are more expensive in Germany) but yea if you do it yourself its damn cheap to fix it but if you take it to a mechanic then you will be skinned alive and your wallet will be molested .Even if you have to fix the crackshaft you can take it yourself and fix it at a shop and then get the proper bearings ...everything you need exists in Europe.

There is one thing hard to find in Europe but that's not for the engine .THe damn Mopar ATF oil and gearbox filtre and seal...those damn things are damn hard to find.
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 #358057  by adu1982
If they are readily available state side we can ship them to y'all....I would no problem.

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 #358078  by Adrian63
Thing is most of the parts needed in a engine rebuild are available in Europe...heck they are few times cheaper than for normal european cars.What costs alot is a good mechanic/work.Most mechanics chicken out when they see american cars because its outside their routine.If you can fix it yourself with no mechanics or no need to rent a garage (some people live in apartments ) then its really cheap to fix ....actually its too cheap for how good the cars looks so its well worth the money plus you get a brand new engine when you are done with it.

What I don't suggest is to buy used engines for these cars if you are in Europe.It seems most of these cars tend to get that rod knock problem @200,000 miles.

A quick question: How much would be to buy a used but good crackshaft from US ?
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 #358139  by remi
Hi Adrian,

I've seen crankshafts with their bearings on RockAuto for around 300-400€ including shipping, IIRC.
Also, DNJ makes full rebuild kits for around 600€ (again, IIRC...), available on RockAuto too. I don't know much about this brand tho. Rebuild kits come with the rod bearings but if you are replacing the crank, I'd suggest you get the bearings that come with it.
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 #358141  by Adrian63
Why is everyone avoiding to use rod bearings that are not standard size?The crankshaft can be fixed (I can resurface it for free) and non standard bearings can be used with it.Yes eyeballing the size won't work but it can be done and that €600 goes down by about €300.You can't say ,if you fix it yourself of course,that is a expensive fix.Time consuming yes but not expensive.I dare you fix a BMW engine for the same amount of money.If you pay a mechanic to do it then your wallet will get molested should see how much german mechanics ask per hour.

As for the rest of parts I found Ajusa and Thermatec in europe. The gaskets from Ajusa look ok and from Thermatec I got the water pump and a radiator .I think I will slowly replace the car part by part :mrgreen: and I say that because I found the radiator for a huge discount (€20 for the whole thing) ...I thought it was a mistake ,heck I got it not because I needed it but because it was too cheap.I'm really amazed how cheap the parts for these cars are you just have to spend some time searching .
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 #358142  by remi
600€ for the WHOLE rebuild kit man! Not only the bearings... This includes head gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, o-rings, everything...

I asked to a local shop here in Southern France how much they take to rebuild a 6 cyls crankshaft, and it's around 300€. Add the bearing for the correct size (a resurfaced crankshaft needs oversized bearings, obviously), well it costs the same as a remanufactured crankshaft bought on RockAuto with its bearings included... Same price for me. Even if I do have access to a lathe for free, I'm not skilled enough to resurface a crank. A piston, or anything simple, yes... Not a crank. Anyway that's not a rebuilding job, that's more than that. Using a lathe IS a job by itself.

I've heard of Ajusa but don't know much about it, thanks for your info about them ;)
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 #358144  by remi
I don't know why but it's a fact... It's cheaper to rebuild a Chrysler than a BMW.
170€ for the crankshaft and bearings, and 93€ of shipping to France, around 260€ total. Add VAT (20% for France), that's 310€.
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 #358145  by Adrian63
I think I can avoid that vat if I ask a friend to ship it to me.Still boggles the mind a damn Fiesta is more expensive than this.Then if its like you say €600 is with vat (we don't like that so we will use workarounds ) then its really worth fixing the engine.If it died at @250,000km (150,000miles) then with €600 you are basically getting another 250k km of 300m.Imo is really worth the fix .

What I still don't know is why these engines throw rods so easy.My Trans Am has about 320,000km and the engine will probably get 1 million km at this rate.Something about these engines is not right and I'm sure we and chrysler are missing something.These engines are kinda new (we still in use till 2010 iirc) so some engineer has some explaining to do.
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 #358163  by adu1982
Dunno but we have a member with one that had over or around a million on it. But he might have changed the bearings .....
My 98 Concorde had 192k miles, my lhs has 165k and the special had 159k (blew a piston .....starting to think more of user fault than the car itself).

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 #358200  by 300maximilien
My observation over the years is the bearing issues are more pronounced on 2002+ years probably due to a parts supplier change..... This is only my opinion.
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 #358206  by adu1982
Could very well be.....there is a yard that marks the cars , run & drive, bad motor etc......there are from what I have seen in there a lot more pre 02 run & drive while many 02+ have bad motors.

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 #358352  by remi
That's also what we can see here in Europe, there are a lot of 2.7L with blown engines, as well as 02+ 3.5L. 99-01 3.5L with dead engines are harder to spot ^^
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 #358367  by Adrian63
remi wrote:That's also what we can see here in Europe, there are a lot of 2.7L with blown engines, as well as 02+ 3.5L. 99-01 3.5L with dead engines are harder to spot ^^
Noticed that myself.Those 2.7 all have the water pump problem.What is really annoying is that most of those 3.5 are sold as good.We really need in Europe the same system US has....titles with miles on them.I've seen plenty of these cars with the mileage turned back and sold as good.Everything thats bellow €3,000 even if it looks great it has hidden oil problems .These cars were really not maintained or treated as diesels.

The rod knock problem appears as soon as you see the oil light flicker.I read its caused by bad pcv valve ,small oil passages,high rev ,etc but Eric the car guy (the mechanic on youtube ,has a Chrysler jeep with the same problem) said the cause is the oil change interval.THe engine is damn sensitive to oil changes.The 3.5 should be a bullet proof engine if you change the oil every 6,000 miles.I don't think that guy is a bad mechanic or lying but I do think most European 300m owners are damn thieves if they sell cars with bad engines as good.
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 #358421  by TrueBlue
hrmwrm wrote:4L is just more stroke.
Good to know! Makes sense. I'm assuming the rest of the 4.0L is pretty similar to the 3.5L. Never did too much digging into the bigger-displacement engine, but I know Matt Armison did use the cams successfully in a 3.5L.
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 #358972  by Adrian63
Here is a video of the 3.5 engine tear down

All bearings were shreded but the rest of the engine looked fine ,even the crankshaft looked ok for what's been through.Now I'm damn curious what's the cause...I want to see the engineer who designed this to explain me why all these engines fail .