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Everything you need to know about changing the oil on your LH.

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 #261666  by 300maximilien
 
http://www.mpt.org/motorweek/reviews/rt2137a.shtml
Although the launch is energetic, power comes on strongest when the tach passes 5,000 rpm, and continues to pull nicely to the 6,800 rpm redline

http://www.allpar.com/reviews/2002/300M-special.html
Unique (we believe) to the 300M Special is the transmission programming, which both allows you to get much closer to redline than the standard model (unless you use the AutoStick), and keeps you in a low gear for a few seconds after you level out at a given speed (if you've gone full out), in case you need to suddenly accelerate again. We suspect the police would love this feature, since it makes darting through traffic much easier
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 #261689  by Bill Putney
 
Arved wrote:
Opticon wrote:
300maximilien wrote:I have always wondered why it seams we see many more Specials with bearing issues as opposed to timing belt/water pump related deaths on Regular Ms
Added HP + higher redline = more stress...
Sorry to bring this back up, but what higher redline? It's still 6,500 rpm, isn't it? Just like the plain 300M...I can't see the few extra HP doing the kind of lower end damage you're talking about here. Otherwise, all those plain 300Ms with intake and other mods getting those same couple extra HP would be having the same damage, and they're not.
300maximilien wrote:http://www.mpt.org/motorweek/reviews/rt2137a.shtml
Although the launch is energetic, power comes on strongest when the tach passes 5,000 rpm, and continues to pull nicely to the 6,800 rpm redline
Apparently it's more the rpm's that cause the problem. According to Rich (Krautmaster), who says he has old-school hi-perf. Mopar experience, the bearings in our engines are designed exactly wrong for high rpms (my guess is because large diameters => large linear oil shear rates).
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 #261713  by krautmaster
 
Yep, the 3.5 engine has an old school bottom end that will run forever at 4,500 rpm, not so long at 6,500 rpm. The small light weight valve train will let the motor rev way faster than is good for it. The main idea is that you're not supposed to run it at red line all the time, -only occasionally, and only for a very short time (seconds).
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 #261773  by Arved
 
300maximilien wrote:http://www.mpt.org/motorweek/reviews/rt2137a.shtml
Although the launch is energetic, power comes on strongest when the tach passes 5,000 rpm, and continues to pull nicely to the 6,800 rpm redline
Likely a typo. Here's photographic proof:

Image

Image is from an auction for a used speedometer from a 2002 300M Special. Redline is still 6,500 RPM. Perhaps the TCM allows the engine to overspeed to 6,800 RPM, but this is the first I've heard of it. Since it's marked at 6,500 RPM, would say the redline has remained at 6,500 RPM.

Those interested in the auction, it's item 140562727310 (not my auction).
 #261781  by Tarheel
 
I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil with the Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil filter. The oil is recommended for 15,000 miles or one-year oil change intervals (by Mobil). I drive the M about 3 to 4K miles a year, the temperatures are mild and there is low to no dust here; when should this oil be changed? :?
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 #261785  by 300maximilien
 
tarheel wrote:I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil with the Mobil 1 Extended Performance oil filter. The oil is recommended for 15,000 miles or one-year oil change intervals (by Mobil). I drive the M about 3 to 4K miles a year, the temperatures are mild and there is low to no dust here; when should this oil be changed? :?
you just answered your own question Frank
 #261789  by Tarheel
 
So, once a year is O.K.? If so, this meshes with our annual NC state inspection; I take the oil and filter to my local Chrysler dealer (actually nice people) have the oil and filter changed for $10 and have my M inspected; out the door and hopefully no reason to return for another year. :D
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 #261823  by grayslater
 
tarheel wrote:So, once a year is O.K.? If so, this meshes with our annual NC state inspection; I take the oil and filter to my local Chrysler dealer (actually nice people) have the oil and filter changed for $10 and have my M inspected; out the door and hopefully no reason to return for another year. :D
No need for the EP version under these conditions. Personally, if it were me, I'd probably just use dino oil and change it annually. But I'm fugal like that. :mrgreen:
 #261833  by Tarheel
 
Thanks Cory, but I just feel safer using the Mobil EP.
 #261849  by isrb710
 
grayslater wrote:But I'm fugal like that. :mrgreen:
OK, Cory - you're "fugal", eh? Does "fugal" stand for:

Finding Unusually Good Always Low-prices?

:)

Ron
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 #261897  by grayslater
 
isrb710 wrote:
grayslater wrote:But I'm fugal like that. :mrgreen:
OK, Cory - you're "fugal", eh? Does "fugal" stand for:

Finding Unusually Good Always Low-prices?

:)

Ron
Something like that! :mrgreen:
User avatar
 #264279  by grayslater
 
Not sure what the high results of sodium are from?? Though in recent oil analysis, Blackstone also has informed my dad of higher sodium results. My dad is using a full quart of MMO to reduce a ticking noise in a 1997 Chevy truck. This seems to be a common thread, though Blackstone indicated that the sodium isn't from MMO?? Formula change they're not familiar with?? Their own comments feel as though it isn't likely a coolant leak but I guess I'll have to keep a closer eye on the coolant level. Otherwise the engine is in great condition! :mrgreen:

Oil analysis report for our 2004 with over 188,000 miles.
04_300M_3.png
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 #264372  by isrb710
 
grayslater wrote:Oil analysis report for our 2004 with over 188,000 miles.
Cory, this is a great thread!

Am I reading it wrong or is Blackstone's recommendation suggesting you go 13,000 MORE miles on the current oil in the 2004? That would be a total of 25,000!!

Have you ever cut open your used oil filters to see how they look? I'd be especially interested to see if there's much difference between the 6K and 12K filters.

Do you know of any studies on oil filter change intervals?

I just started using Mobil1 EP on 3 vehicles with a Mobil1 EP filter. My plan is to go with a 15,000 mile OCI and I'd like to change the filter at 15,000 too. (IIRC, you did one filter change at 12,000 miles and your oil analysis was still good.) Do you think this plan is OK or am I pushing it too much? I know I'll have to top the oil off about every 3-5,000 miles - I was a full quart low after 8-10K mile OCI's on 2 of the 3 vehicles.

Thanks, Ron
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 #264374  by grayslater
 
isrb710 wrote:[Cory, this is a great thread!

Am I reading it wrong or is Blackstone's recommendation suggesting you go 13,000 MORE miles on the current oil in the 2004? That would be a total of 25,000!!

Have you ever cut open your used oil filters to see how they look? I'd be especially interested to see if there's much difference between the 6K and 12K filters.

Do you know of any studies on oil filter change intervals?

I just started using Mobil1 EP on 3 vehicles with a Mobil1 EP filter. My plan is to go with a 15,000 mile OCI and I'd like to change the filter at 15,000 too. (IIRC, you did one filter change at 12,000 miles and your oil analysis was still good.) Do you think this plan is OK or am I pushing it too much? I know I'll have to top the oil off about every 3-5,000 miles - I was a full quart low after 8-10K mile OCI's on 2 of the 3 vehicles.

Thanks, Ron
Hey Ron.
No, they're only suggesting that I could go to 13,000 miles on my OCI (oil change interval).

No, I've never cut open my used oil filters. Yes, I have gone the full 12K with one oil filter with input that I read on BITOG.com but I felt better changing it midway and topping it off. The fresh oil is an added benefit.

I grew up with the old theory of 3K oil changes. The one time I ran 13,000+ miles with Mobil EB I just didn't feel comfortable going any further. I believe that was with a single oil filter as well IIRC?? 12K just seems to be a good sweet spot and changing the filter at 6K just makes it easier.

NOTE: You will need to keep your oil topped off weekly!! Do not wait until you're a quart low after 3-5K miles. Keeping your oil in there that long, you need to keep it topped off and adding fresh oil as needed. It's not uncommon for me to check the dip stick and add 4oz at a time.

Have you run synthetics for a while now before considering a 15K OCI?? Personally, I wouldn't take it this far before having the oil analized at some predetermined interval in between. What type of mileage do you run annually?? If less than 15K, you might be a candidate for an annual OCI. But I'd still rather buy a cheaper (quality filter like Wix or Purolator PureOne) and change it then semi annually.
 #264440  by isrb710
 
Cory,

OK. Since they said you can go to 200K and you were at 187K with 12K on the current oil, I was like WOW, that's a BIG jump compared to their earlier recommendations.

I've run full synthetic for about a year now on all 4 cars. I just decided to use Mobil1 EP a few months ago because I want a longer OCI. I have switched 3 cars to M1 EP so far.

I'm also now considering Pennzoil Platinum based on your results, since it's about $1 per quart less and gave you very good results.

I'd like to buy my oil in bulk, if I can find it and it actually cuts down on the cost. Do you know if any full synthetic brands come in 5 gallon or larger containers? And where I can buy them?

2 of our cars will be 10K or less miles a year. My M will be around 15K, and my wife's Camry will be around 20K.

However, I was in a store last night that had 1 gallon jugs of Valvoline SynPower on clearance for $13. I was REAL tempted to buy all 7 gallons, as that's an excellent price for full synthetic. Valvoline's a good name brand, but I didn't want to spend $100 on oil I was unfamiliar with.

What have you heard or read about Valvoline SynPower?

Thanks, Ron
User avatar
 #264456  by grayslater
 
isrb710 wrote:Cory,

OK. Since they said you can go to 200K and you were at 187K with 12K on the current oil, I was like WOW, that's a BIG jump compared to their earlier recommendations.

I've run full synthetic for about a year now on all 4 cars. I just decided to use Mobil1 EP a few months ago because I want a longer OCI. I have switched 3 cars to M1 EP so far.

I'm also now considering Pennzoil Platinum based on your results, since it's about $1 per quart less and gave you very good results.

I'd like to buy my oil in bulk, if I can find it and it actually cuts down on the cost. Do you know if any full synthetic brands come in 5 gallon or larger containers? And where I can buy them?

2 of our cars will be 10K or less miles a year. My M will be around 15K, and my wife's Camry will be around 20K.

However, I was in a store last night that had 1 gallon jugs of Valvoline SynPower on clearance for $13. I was REAL tempted to buy all 7 gallons, as that's an excellent price for full synthetic. Valvoline's a good name brand, but I didn't want to spend $100 on oil I was unfamiliar with.

What have you heard or read about Valvoline SynPower?

Thanks, Ron
Ron,
I had informed them that I had changed the oil with this sample, thus the suggestion of going to 200K. I've personally used Valvoline SynPower in the 2004 a couple of times. I usually buy what I can find on sale for synthetics though. I've tried many. My favorites being Castrol EDGE and Pennzoil Platinum, followed by Mobil 1 and Valvoline SYNPower with QuakerState HorsePower bringing up the rear.

Amsoil can be purchased in bulk but at a premium. :shock:
 #264559  by isrb710
 
Thanks. I will go back and see if there's any of the Valvoline SynPower left.
 #267394  by isrb710
 
There were 6 gallons jugs left, so I bought them all! Already used 1 of them.

A friend of mine has a 2010 Camry that requires full synthetic oil. I rode with him to get some parts at the Toyota dealer and saw that Toyota's recommend OCI for them is 10,000 miles! Looking at their every 5k service recommendations, they LOWERED the price for the full synthetic cars for the 5K, 15K, 25K, etc. service due to NOT changing the oil.

So full synthetic with 10K OCI's maintains the Toyota warranty. That's the longest OCI that I've seen from a car manufacturer.

Anybody else know of any manufacturer-recommended 10K OCI's?