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 #129738  by Turborusty
 
I got it all wrapped up and running, the next day I get codes 0301 and 1684.


P0301= Misfire detected in cyl. #1

P1684= Battery disconnected within last 50 starts



I understand the battery one, except the fact that I did not disconnect the battery.

Any ideas? The car runs great otherwise, save for the seemingly rough idle I posted about in another thread.



Turborusty

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 #129745  by Ruffy
 
timing is off. i had this problem when i replaced the distributor on my jeep. you're only off by one notch. It's close enough to where it will run and work but off by just enough of a fraction that these problems arise.

Sad to say the fix is more than likely taking the belt off and placing it back on. Get to a proper mechanic and have the timing checked properly.

 #129750  by Turborusty
 
Thanks, after reading my search results looking for info on the rough idle at stop lights, looks like the timing will do that as well.

Looks like I'm gonna be opening it back up to adjust it a tooth.

I reset the belt exactly like the old one, but it always idled rough like that before the belt swap. Perhaps the old one was a tooth off as well?



Turborusty

 #129754  by Almond300mMD
 
I would not start taking it apart yet. If the timing was off I believe You would be getting the following code:

Image

Also, I think you would be getting misfires on more than the one cyl. The fact the it idled like this before you did the timing belt and that has not changed would leave me to believe the problem lies elsewhere. How about switching the coils from the cyl getting the misfire to another cyl and seeing if this code changes?

 #129757  by Turborusty
 
I'll try switching the coils.......

The idle was always funny like that, but the codes only came up after the belt swap.


Seems to me that the spread between the timing marks on the heads are kinda far apart, leaving room for a tooth-offness.......I know it's not a word, sorry.

I'm waiting to see if the codes will go away and clear on their own before disconnecting the battery and losing all my memory settings.


Turborusty

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 #129780  by FIREM
 
Are you sure you set the belt exactly where it was? When installing new belt you need to start at the crank, wrap the left (drivers side) cam, then the water pump, right cam, idler and tension-er. I just did by belt and found it was easy to miss the right cam by one tooth. Turn the engine by hand two complete revolutions and recheck the marks. they must be exactly in line, crank and both cams. The cam sensor reads only the left cam so if you miss the right side it may not show code 1390. Coil swap may help pinpoint misfire code. I would get that cleared up prior to opening up the front for the timing marks.

 #129796  by Turborusty
 
I though about it just after bolting everything back on, that I should have rotated the crank to make sure they all lined up again.

I though about the possibility of the belt not quite seating down into the crank teeth and then falling into place when it was finally started, only they'd be a tooth off.

I'm gonna look into a few things before ripping the front open again. Although, being recently familiar with it, the whole thing shouldn't take me very long. I think I can even get in there without removing the radiator hose and draining all the coolant. But this time, I'm laying a towel or something across the top of the radiator, my forearms are scuffed and scraped all to hell.



Thanks for the tips guys....a little foresight might have helped me, but at least it's not any worse than it is. I can beat this thing :gavel


Funny thing is, the car seems a little softer at low RPM's, a little torque loss maybe, but it feels stronger up in the higher RPM range than before.


Turborusty

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 #129819  by Scott1094
 
Turborusty,

Advancing or retarding the cam changes the power band. Retarded cams move the power band up in the RPM range. Advanced moves the power band down.

Scott

 #129820  by Almond300mMD
 
I wonder if there is any power to be made from adjustable cam gears on the 300m. You could shift the power band around depending on what you are trying to do.

 #129823  by Turborusty
 
Almond300mMD wrote:I wonder if there is any power to be made from adjustable cam gears on the 300m. You could shift the power band around depending on what you are trying to do.

There is a definite increase in mid-high RPM power

I'll let you know what I find, which direction it was off, if any, and YOU can experiment with it. :nolike

I just want my codes to go away and have a good idle. I want the low-end torque back as well, since my wife doesn't rev it like I do, most of it's life will be spent at low RPM's.



I really appreciate the input from you guys. Though I'm no stranger to cars in general or Mopars specifically, I'm not fluent in all of them, and sometimes need a little outside guidance. :huddle

Plus, I'm not scared of going back in to find the problem, that's a good thing........I hope :samurai

Turborusty

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 #129828  by Carfan77
 
Seems to me that the spread between the timing marks on the heads are kinda far apart, leaving room for a tooth-offness.......I know it's not a word, sorry.
There is a large gap between the timing marks. These are there solely to set the engine for the right place to take off the belt assembly. It is critical that a match mark be made on the rear timing cover exactly where the sprocket timing mark lines up between the two marks. The rear cover on each side should then have two marks made by the factory, and one mark made by you.

That is a step that we've seen even experienced mechanics miss, and can result in a slightly mis-timed engine, possibly only on one bank.

 #129854  by Turborusty
 
Carfan77 wrote: There is a large gap between the timing marks. These are there solely to set the engine for the right place to take off the belt assembly. It is critical that a match mark be made on the rear timing cover exactly where the sprocket timing mark lines up between the two marks. The rear cover on each side should then have two marks made by the factory, and one mark made by you.

That is a step that we've seen even experienced mechanics miss, and can result in a slightly mis-timed engine, possibly only on one bank.
I marked them and lined em up but failed to rotate the engine and recheck for alignment of the marks afterward. this is especially important since the belt seemed a bit slacked. I just can't believe I forgot to do it.

I made a mental note to do it, but then got hasty and started tossing parts back on. :flushem

I'll open it up and see how close the marks are. My guess is I have one cam one tooth off.


Turborusty

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 #129856  by Carfan77
 
Ahhh. Two revolutions of the crank are critical for verification. Hope you get it worked out.

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 #129865  by swalker
 
Ken, That's what I did and it worked fine. I put a belt on a friends 95 3.5 and got the right side cam off one tooth. It looked lined up until I unleashed the tension-er and rotated it.

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 #129866  by velobard
 
FIREM wrote:The cam sensor reads only the left cam so if you miss the right side it may not show code 1390.
Where else could you get this stuff from so easy? This club is great!!! :thumbsup

 #129999  by Turborusty
 
Me and the car are going rounds this afternoon......I'll report back from the trenches.



Turborusty

 #130001  by Almond300mMD
 
velobard wrote:
FIREM wrote:The cam sensor reads only the left cam so if you miss the right side it may not show code 1390.
Where else could you get this stuff from so easy? This club is great!!! :thumbsup
Cyl # 1 is in fact on the right side. let us know how it turns out.

 #130002  by Turborusty
 
Almond300mMD wrote:
Cyl # 1 is in fact on the right side. let us know how it turns out.
Will do!!!

And as an aside, I would have guessed cyl #1 to be on the left....as is on my 360.

 #130057  by Turborusty
 
Sho nuff....right cam, skipped 1 toof to the right.

Got er back right......and rotated it through two crank revolutions this time to ensure they realigned.


'sall good, test drive tomorrow.



Turborusty

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 #130060  by Carfan77
 
Congrats. See, ain't we a good bunch?? :headbang