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Everything you need to know about changing the oil on your LH.

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 #227572  by Bigsplash
 
I am thinking of doing my own oil changes, and was wondering what would be the best way to lift my car so I could work safely under it.

I was thinking of building my own ramps out of 2 by 10 lumber, I am not really sure where to position the jacks. Jacks would take up a lot less space.

What do you guys do?
User avatar
 #227576  by Bill Putney
 
I jack up the driver's side front with a floor jack under the frame where the tension strut bracket attaches. Don't need to jack it so high that the wheel is off the ground - only high enough to get the drain pan under there with enough room to work. By tilting it towards the passenger side, you are maximizing getting the oil out along with settled particles since the drain is on that side and towards the rear.

If you can guarantee that you will not be underneath a spot that you could get injured if the jack were to fail, no need to use a jack stand. But if any doubt about that, put one under the driver's side of the front frame cross member (or reverse the locations of the jack and jack stand from what I've suggested). In either case, check stability by shaking the car good before getting under there.
User avatar
 #227579  by Timbo
 
Or you can just go out and pick up a pair of Rhino Ramps for $40.

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Then it is super easy. Just Drive up and choke the rear wheels. can't get any safer then that.
User avatar
 #227590  by 300man86
 
Timbo wrote:Or you can just go out and pick up a pair of Rhino Ramps for $40.

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Then it is super easy. Just Drive up and choke the rear wheels. can't get any safer then that.

Thats what I use but the problem I have with them is that I lost both rubber grommets that go on the bottom part of the ramp. Several times I've had the ramps slip out in front of me when driving up on them. Its doesn't matter if I'm using them for my M or my tundra. It slips out.

Also for safety reasons put a block of wood behind one of the rear wheels or both to be more safe.

Chris
 #227596  by Craig300
 
Do the rhino ramps work on a special? i.e. is the slope gentle enough to avoid contacting the bumper?

Thanks
User avatar
 #227630  by Bigsplash
 
Is there any chance someone could post a pic, of where exactly the floor jack goes. (I am verbally challenged, and pictures do it so much better for me)

Bill I really appreciate any of your posts, you seem to be very knowledgeable when it come to this kind of stuff.

Had a bad experience with Rhino ramps slipping, don't think I want to go that route.
User avatar
 #227645  by Bill Putney
 
Bigsplash wrote:Is there any chance someone could post a pic, of where exactly the floor jack goes. (I am verbally challenged, and pictures do it so much better for me)...
In the sketch below (showing driver's side of vehicle), item 17 is the tension strut. It projects forward from the control arm (item 15) and the forward end of the tension strut attaches to a bracket (bracket not shown - but the tension strut is secured to that bracket with hardware items 33 thru 36). Place the jack under the frame (engine cradle) immediately inboard of the point where that tension arm bracket attaches to the frame.

What I referred to earlier as the frame cross member is the beefy piece that extends across the whole front of the frame and joins the passenger side and driver's side pieces of the frame that the tension strut brackets attach to. Towards the driver's side of center of that piece is where you would put a jack stand.

Hopefully the sketch gives you a reference so that the rest of the words make sense as you look at the underside of your car.

Image
User avatar
 #227651  by LUNAT1C
 
Seriously doubt Rhino Ramps will work for the Special. Bob has them, and we had jacked my car up onto them when we needed to be under there with the suspension loaded. I wasn't willing to drive it back down.
User avatar
 #227680  by Bigsplash
 
Bill thanks for the pic, things are a lot more clear now. :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
User avatar
 #227696  by monte4
 
I built a set of these and love them. No clearance problems at all driving up on them and they don't go anywhere as you go up on them. I put a big eyehook in the front of each one and tied a big loop of nylon cord to it to drag them around.

http://mustangworld.com/ourpics/News/mwramps/index.htm
 #227703  by soloz2
 
monte4 wrote:I built a set of these and love them. No clearance problems at all driving up on them and they don't go anywhere as you go up on them. I put a big eyehook in the front of each one and tied a big loop of nylon cord to it to drag them around.

http://mustangworld.com/ourpics/News/mwramps/index.htm
those look great. Maybe I'll build a slightly smaller version.


FYI Rhino ramps do not work with my '99 LHS. The bumper hits the ramp before the front wheels. And changing the oil is such a PITA w/o lifting the front end I just have always paid someone to do it.
User avatar
 #227729  by Bigsplash
 
Hey Bill could you please take a look at these pics and tell me if this is the correct place to lift the vehicle, I have taken 5 pics from different angles, hope this makes sense?

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User avatar
 #227730  by Bigsplash
 
Also would it be save to jack the car up at the location circled in red?

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User avatar
 #227736  by Bill Putney
 
Yes - that was the jacking point I was talking about. Be careful that you're not supporting it on a curved edge where just a little shake of the car could allow the jack lift cup to slip out from under it and the car fall - and that's of course why jack stands are used, but you have to watch the same thing with them. I'd kind of like to see that cup further in a little on those first photos. It looks like it is close to slipping to the outside of the frame piece.

On the red circled part - yes - that would be OK. That is one of the four cradle mounts (attaches the engine cradle to the rest of the car. That's at the end of the frame cross member that I was talking about. Inboard of the end a foot or so away from the center is where I was talking about putting a jack stand - but, again, it has an upward curve to it as you move outward from center, so be well inboard of that curvature so it doesn't slip out from under the car.

Pretty much any place suitable for the jack is suitable for the jack stand and vice-versa.
User avatar
 #227745  by Bigsplash
 
Bill, thanks so very much for your help, this forum is truly amazing, and it is people like you that make it so.
I have just signed up and paid for full membership. :mrgreen:
User avatar
 #227748  by grayslater
 
First 2 pics are for the stock location as used with the OEM jack or similar smaller, floor jacks.
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This is my standard setup for jacking up the front end and the locations of the jack stands.
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User avatar
 #227750  by Bigsplash
 
:cool :rope
User avatar
 #227756  by Bill Putney
 
Bigsplash wrote:Bill, thanks so very much for your help, this forum is truly amazing, and it is people like you that make it so.
I have just signed up and paid for full membership. :mrgreen:
Good decision, Lawrence. And you're very welcome.
grayslater wrote:Image
Good photos, Cory. That one reminds me of when Tom apparently placed his jack slightly too far forward in the center of the frame cross member, and it slipped off and sliced upward thru the grille and radiator and everything else in its path. Lawrence, that's that warning I keep raising about making sure you're not lifting with the edge of the jack cup on a curved surface. See how the bottom of that member has a slope on it? Watch out!
User avatar
 #227766  by grayslater
 
My post on the end of the jack however has 4 raised corners. 2 corners are grabbing the back of the cross frame and the rest is coming forward. So the cross member fits inside my post.
User avatar
 #227769  by LOUD98ES
 
I have Rhino Ramps. They WILL NOT work on a Special in the front, the cladding is too low. Rear probably will work, but haven't tried.